Linen, candles, cutlery and glasses - just the basic elements for eating, you might think, but even these are subject to passing trends and changes in tastes.

The art of banqueting dates back as far as the prehistoric era, when the simple act of eating was transformed into both a social event and a public show of power, and its importance continues today. At formal events like company meetings, it is the perfect moment for developing interpersonal relationships in a more relaxed environment, and it is the tables themselves that give that extra touch to the occasion, or even decide the outcome of a meeting.

But as fashions change so does table style, so to draw up some guidelines on the art of table dressing we spoke to some experts, who have reinterpreted the latest trends and combined them with their own inspiration.

One of the most imaginative catering organisations is Il Maestro di Casa, headed by Melania Sala, who has designed "disposable" tableware in coloured plastic. Nicola Sciorra of Convivium Banqueting also speaks of breaking with the past and overturning all standards, recommending unusual colour combinations and trays made out of coconut leaves, whereas Silvio Salza, owner of the Pisa-

based company Federico Salza, is more traditional, and favours marquees and candlelight. Big centrepieces are given the thumbs-down by Piero Fumarola of Chez Vous, who enlivens the table with seasonal fruit, while Nicoletta Nobili of El Toulà believes that the general trend is towards the style of the old aristocratic families, who used only the finest materials. One person who misses the old traditions is Count Orazio Zanardi Landi, owner of the Castello di Rivalta in Emilia Romagna. He believes that elegance has been neglected in favour of fashion, and that the art of presenting food has been lost. So, it seems that anything goes, as long as it is all done with taste and moderation.